Vintage Wednesday: Salt Cellars

Before we had salt shakers, there were salt cellars (usually with a lid) or open salts (without a lid). Salt cellars have evolved since the Middle Ages and have become a highly collectible table accessory. In the Middle Ages, the master salt cellar was usually placed at the middle of the table and your status was determined by whether you were seated above the salt (higher rank) or below the salt (lower rank).

I believe this evolved to setting the master salt at the head of the table in front of the host with seating determined by rank. In more modern times, individual salts have replaced one master salt cellar. I've seen differing accounts as to the etiquette of where individual salt cellars are placed and I believe this has evolved since older etiquette books have different accounts of where to place them. Older books say they should be placed "between covers" - i.e., between your dishes - with the salt spoon resting across the top of the cellar. Newer books say they should be placed above the plate or charger, but I've seen diagrams that also place them slightly to the left of center toward the bread plate.

Salt cellars are usually glass or ceramic because salt tends to pit silver. There are, however, silver salt cellars with cobalt liners that are lovely. Older master salts were even made in gold - such as Benvenuto Cellini’s Salt Cellar pictured to the right. Some were made to hang in the kitchen near the stove as the stoneware cellar pictured to the left that has a large lip at the back with which to hang it on the wall. I've also seen some made of ivory, some porcelain and some with a gold wash in the bowl. Some have an "S" engraved on them and others are simply labelled "salt" on the side!

Whatever your preference, salt cellars are a lovely collectible and an elegant addition to your formal table!